September Vicenzaoro Shines With New Jewelry Exhibitors And VO’Clock Privé Watch Events

Every September, the annual late summer edition of the Vicenzaoro jewelry trade fair animates the Italian city of Vicenza (population 110,000). This September, the Vicenzaoro Jewellery Boutique Show takes place September 8th through the 12th and the contemporary watchmaking event VO’Clock Privé is open to the public from September 8th to 10th. Presented by the Italian Exhibition Group (IEG) Vicenzaoro is an essential annual international event for those working in every aspect of the gold and jewelry supply chain. Glittering with luxury brands and independent designers, including those pioneering new materials, forms and concepts, Vicenzaoro draws prestige retail jewelry buyers and members of the media from across the globe. As IEG CEO Corrado Peraboni noted, “Vicenzaoro and other shows presented by IEG such as Oroarezzo, JGT in Dubai and SIJE in Singapore all aim to deepen and strengthen IEG’s offerings to the jewelry and watch industries by providing ever more international opportunities for brands, independent designers, manufacturers, members of the media and more.”

Official industry figures seem to indicate that IEG’s Vicenzaoro annual September and January editions, plus its other shows, are making their mark on the global jewelry market. According to Confindustria Federorafi, a national association representing companies in Italy’s jewelry manufacturing sector, 2022 exports of Italian gold and silver jewelry reached 9.8 billion euros (about $10.5 billion) which represents a 22.5 percent increase over the same period in 2021, and a 40.8 percent increase over the same period in 2019. Given these gleaming figures, one can say without fear of hyperbole that the “Made in Italy” mark symbolizes globally valued fine and prestige jewelry design, materials and artisanship. The golden history of Vicenza begins in 1333, when Italy’s first goldsmith’s guild was founded inside the Basilica Palladiana arcade. Since then, Vicenza and its environs have remained Italy’s gold jewelry center, with artisans learning, practicing and refining heritage techniques while also employing advanced technologies to create contemporary designs.

Made in Italy Jewels

New high jewelry trends are manifesting this week at Vicenzaoro in the show’s ICON community, which is hosting the best of “Made in Italy” jewelry and international production. While numerous companies from Germany, France and Spain are showing, other amply represented areas include Asia, with many companies from Thailand exhibiting. Major Italian luxury brands presenting at Vicenzaoro include Damiani, distinguished by its classically luxurious creations; Roberto Coin, with a new array of sleek, clean-lined designs, many of which include diamonds. Then there is also Crivelli from Valenza, which combines precious gemstones with different shades of gold to produce jewels of distinction. Vicenza-based FOPE, a pioneer of elegant and ingenious gold jewelry, will be presenting ever more designs involving patented tiny spring systems that make chic, highly flexible, ergonomically chic jewels.

While Florence-based Annamaria Cammilli, which excels at creating imaginatively designed and brilliantly textured gold jewels is exhibiting, so is Roberto De Meglio, a master of ultra-fine; ultra-comfortable jewelry. Palmiero, a Valenza-based company that creates wonderful haute couture jewelry, will doubtless delight many retail buyers and members of the media with its rare designs and high production values. The Genoese heritage brand Gismondi 1754, which is listed on Euronext Growth Milan, will be showing jewels that embody refined aesthetics, sublime materials and master artisanship. Vicenzaoro September also marks the return of the historic Valenza brand Vendorafa, recently taken over by Gismondi 1754.

Various classic jewelry brands that continue the venerable goldsmith traditions of Italy’s Veneto and Piedmont regions, such as Leo Pizzo, Mirco Visconti, Davite & Delucchi, Giorgio Visconti and World Diamond Group, are shining this September at Vicenzaoro. The show also features such high jewelry companies as Schreiner Fine Jewellery from Germany, known for haute luxe creations long worn by various royals, the English brand Yoko London, which designs with unusually large and beautifully colored pearls, Dámaso Martinez from Spain, specializing in fashion forward, contemporary jewels with global appeal, and Autore, a Sydney, Australia-based South Sea pearl jewelry company with farms in Australia and Indonesia. The German company Stenzhorn, whose creations feature an invisible setting technique, and Akillis from France, with visually compelling, bold designs, are also exhibiting. Returning this year to Vicenzaoro is the super-glam French brand Djula, owned by the Chinese group Fosun. Favored by pop stars like Rihanna, Beyoncé and Ariana Grande, Djula is known for setting trends.

New Exhibitors This Year

The business atmosphere of September Vicenzaoro is burnished by numerous new and noteworthy entries. Leading the charge is heritage Spanish company Carrera y Carrera, which, with 135-plus years of jewelry-making tradition and a new creative team headed by Daniel Calvo, will be offering high luxury jewels alive with design motifs inspired by natural life forms, great architecture and fine art. Superior Made-in-Germany design is represented by Jörg Heinz, which has pioneered a system of interchangeable fasteners that conceal the clasp inside the jewel so that it serves its purpose perfectly, and in secret. Vicenzaoro also welcomes the high jewelry company Butani, along with Staurino Fratelli, which has been a leading company in the Valenza gold district for four generations and produces ultra-refined creations worn by such by A-list actors as Sandra Bullock.

The Design Room

New market trends, craftsmanship and creative talent will enliven The Design Room workshop area, which returns to Vicenzaoro with a selection of international designers who produce pieces embodying distinctive style and artisanship. Presenting for the first time here will be Stephen Webster, the legendary London-based jeweler who is worn by everyone from Jennifer Lopez to Cate Blanchett to Ozzy Osbourne. Also making its Design Room debut will be Busatti Milano, a prestigious brand from the Italian fashion capital, plus Miseno Jewelry, which was founded by Antonio Cardamuro, a veteran of various major international fashion houses. The 21st century baroque jewels of Alessio Boschi, who oscillates between Civita di Bagnoregio and Bangkok, will be here in all their glory, and so will irresistible jewels by young Chilean designer José María Goñi, who is worn by members of the Malaysian Royal Family, as well as pop stars like Madonna.

Also showing in The Design Room are eye-motif jewels by Netali Nissim and romantic, haute luxe designs from Morphée Joaillerie by designer and gemologist Pamela Hastry. Indian-Belgian Salima Thakker’s sumptuously sensual jewels, and the elegant creations of Marina B, a company founded by Marina Bulgari that was re-launched by French-Italian designer Guy Bedarida. The Dreamboule rings by Beniamino Crocco are a must-see: they fuse watchmaking culture, goldsmith traditions and artistic savoir faire with irresistible flair.

Vicenzaoro’s Design Room will also feature high jewelry by Leonori, the intriguing creations of Osi Vitoria Jewelry which are inspired by Chinese ink paintings, and contemporary silhouettes by Mousson Atelier. Chic designs by Antonini Milano, which have been worn on the red carpet by Halle Berry, Anne Hathaway and Taylor Swift will also sparkle and shine.

The Golden Experience

An integral aspect of September Vicenzaoro is its cultural collaboration with the city of Vicenza, which fittingly is the home of the Museo del Gioiello, Italy’s one and only jewelry museum. A UNESCO-designated world heritage site, Vicenza is bejeweled by the graceful buildings of Andrea Palladio (1508–80). Palladio based his oeuvre on detailed studies of classical Roman architecture, and his buildings imbue Vicenza with a visually harmonious; romantic atmosphere which one clearly sees and feels in and around the Basilica Palladiana.

According to Marco Carniello, IEG’s Global Exhibition Director of its Jewellery and Fashion Division , “We team up with local authorities to present the Vicenzaoro Fuori Fiera (VIOFF), meaning “off-show” cultural events.” This year, the 10th edition of VIOFF, entitled “Golden Experience”, is offerings activities and events involving all five senses, including a tour in collaboration with the Museo Diocesano, which tells the history behind Vicenza’s jewels of the Madonna di Monte Berico. “She is the patron saint of Vicenza,” Carniello explains. “The Madonna’s story, along with the jewels created from those of Vicenza’s noble families to honor her,” he continues, “are interwoven with Vicenza’s heritage as one of the world’s oldest and most influential centers of the goldsmith’s art.” In addition to guided tours, VIOFF is presenting a program of gold and jewelry-related workshops and educational activities for adults and children of all ages.

In addition to its varied jewelry offerings, Vicenzaoro also celebrates and caters to timepiece enthusiasts by presenting VO’ Clock Privé. This business-to-consumer show-within-the-show spans the Vicenzaoro weekend and introduces a dynamic fair for watch lovers and collectors. VO’Clock Privé provides opportunities to experience the greatest timepieces and leading watchmaking brands in a welcoming; gracious environment. For three days, VO’Clock Privé presents news of the market, plus a stimulating program of technical courses. Examples include “The Tourbillon, One of the Most Fascinating Complications in Haute Horlogerie”. Courses and talks are led by members of the most recognized horological institutes, along with independent experts.

As Vicenzaoro will be celebrating its 70th anniversary this coming January, ever more fine and high jewelry brands, plus memorable watches are scheduled for the fair’s January 2024 edition. It will also be intriguing to see what kind of commercially and culturally important programs are presented for the 70th edition of this globally influential event. (Watch this space for upcoming reports on Vicenzaoro 70.)

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