When it comes to watches, mechanical timepieces are considered the best investment in terms of quality and value retention. But even in the world of luxury timepieces, very few brands can craft their own mechanical calibers. The German manufacturer NOMOS Glashütte is one of them. Based in Glashütte, NOMOS draws on the town’s rich heritage of over 175 years of watchmaking expertise. With a reputation that extends far beyond Germany, the name Glashütte finally received protected status under German federal law last year. Like in the case of ‘Swiss Made’ watches, now only brands that produce most of their calibers’ value on-site in Glashütte are permitted to use the town’s name on their watches.
Three new tool watches that proudly bear the name of Glashütte on their dials are Club Sport neomatik 39 in tabac (dark brown), ember (gold beige) and smoke (light grey). Robust yet elegant, with radiantly polished dials, these timepieces are equipped with the innovative automatic caliber DUW 3001, made by NOMOS in Glashütte. At only 3.2 millimeters in height, this mechanical movement is incredibly thin and yet highly precise. Since many automatic caliber designs are over 50 years old, modern production allows for great improvements in efficiency for those watch companies with the technical know-how.
In the watch world, it is very rare to be an owner-operated brand at all, as many of the biggest names in the industry belong to luxury conglomerates. At NOMOS Glashütte, developing the mechanical calibers that powers its watches is at the heart of the brand’s independence. A major milestone was achieved when NOMOS introduced a proprietary escapement; a watchmaking component essential for setting the pace in a mechanical movement. The result of a fruitful collaboration between the NOMOS R&D department and the technical university TU Dresden, it represents the rewards of in-house production for both companies and consumers. NOMOS Glashütte now generates up to 95 percent of its calibers’ value in-house, which means that it can ensure consistent quality throughout the entire watchmaking process.
Continuing to invest heavily in quality remains at the heart of the company’s business strategy. NOMOS Glashütte currently hold several patents for its watchmaking developments, such as the unique ring date display and date mechanism that can be found in its watch model Tangente neomatik 41 Update. The date ring, which is wrapped around the edge of the dial, frames the current date with two subtle red markers. This unique design is only possible due to the mechanical caliber within the watch, which was likewise developed in-house by NOMOS Glashütte. The result is a timepiece that represents the brand both inside and out—and is unlike any other on the market. This innovative approach to business, like any smart investment, will continue to pay dividends for the years to come.