To those who were stunned by Donald Trumpâs return to the White House, fashion and beauty TikTokers have one thing to say: you were warned.
Creators on the platform are making the case that âtrad wives,â âquiet luxury,â Western wear and even âclean girlâ makeup were not, in fact (or not just, in some cases), cleverly-named flashes in the pan. Rather, they were tea leaves pointing to a rightward swing in American culture that presaged a Republican victory on election night.
âIf anybody says âI didnât know our country was going down a conservative path,â I would ask you, have you been on the internet in the past four years?â Lindsey Bales, a Minneapolis-based fashion-focused creator, said in a TikTok video.
To be sure, not everyone who wore a milkmaid dress, a slicked back bun or a fringed jacket over the past few years voted for Trump. And in exit polls, Trumpâs voters named immigration, inflation and other concerns as the primary motivation behind their choice.
But the virality of conservative-coded styles speaks to the fact that the ideas they represent â whether itâs a rural lifestyle, traditional family values or an idealisation of âold moneyâ wealth â are edging their way back into the cultural mainstream. Itâs a shift away from, if not an outright pushback against, a decade-plus where many brands embraced a progressive image, whether that meant taking a more inclusive approach to model casting or supporting Planned Parenthood.
Now, brands are grappling with how to market to a rising generation of consumers who are approaching their relationship with politics, and fashion differently. Gen-Zers, the driving force behind many TikTok trends, lean Republican in higher numbers than previous generations: they favoured Kamala Harris over Trump by a margin of 11 points, down from 24 points when Biden won in 2020, according to exit polls published by CNN.
Brands have been more reluctant to engage with politics than in 2020, or even 2016, perhaps an unspoken acknowledgment that with the Republicans winning both chambers of Congress as well as the presidential popular vote, too, this isnât a demographic they can afford to alienate.
âConservatism is like a deeply held value system, as much as progressivism,â said Elysia Berman, a creative director and content creator on TikTok whose video on how fashion trends predicted Trumpâs election received over 300,000 likes. âWhen you feel that strongly about it, you want to reflect those ideals outwardly.â
Behind the Trends
The fashion industry likes to think it drives culture, but more often itâs the other way around. Women in the 1940s embraced pants and jumpsuits as they entered the workforce en masse during World War II. As traditional gender roles made a comeback in the 1950s, ultra-feminine wardrobes prevailed. More recently, the logomania of the 2010s can be connected to the rebound from the Great Recession, as shoppers wanted to celebrate their improving financial status.
After Trumpâs first presidential win in 2016, fashion brands â and consumers â were eager to show off their progressive chops. Legacy brands like Victoriaâs Secret updated their marketing to be more inclusive, while sustainability-minded labels like Reformation saw quick growth. While some brands could point to years, even decades of activism, many consumers came to question whether support for Black Lives Matter or inclusive marketing represented deeply held beliefs, or were stances taken mainly to sell clothes.
âBrands actually may never have had a lot of those values they claimed to,â said Hallie Spradlin, director of visionary at trend forecasting agency Fashion Snoops. âRather they were just these immediate band aids or responses to the cultural conversation.â
As the world emerged from the pandemic, the trend cycle took a right turn.
âSuccessionâ and its merciless satirising of the ultra-rich may have inspired quiet luxury, but the style is often marketed as a way to emulate the Roy familyâs conservative media moguls, rather than mock them. The âold moneyâ aesthetic that has bubbled up on TikTok also idealised a more conservative approach to dressing, both literally and figuratively. The look itself is modest â think pearls and cashmere sweater sets â but also reminiscent of old-school, Ronald Reagan-era Republicans.
Western wear comes from the cowboy culture that is most popular in ruby-red states like Montana and Wyoming. Even as Coachella attendees and liberal icons such as Beyoncé have embraced the look, it remains rooted in an animosity towards modern culture. Earlier this month, during the mid-season premiere of âYellowstone,â the show credited in part with spurring the trend, for instance, even featured a cowboy lambasting two characters who were caricatures of coastal elites, with bright-red dyed hair and a wide-eyed fascination with horses.
Another example is the revival of Americana, best seen in Ralph Laurenâs record-high share price and sales this year. The brand isnât overtly political, but its embrace of American touchstones, and the rah-rah boosterism of its Olympics sponsorship, struck a chord in an election year that saw both parties try to outdo each other in patriotic displays.
While this has crossover appeal â a YouGov poll this summer found that the patriotically named American Eagle is the brand with the greatest overlap of conservative and liberal customers â embracing the flag and traditional American values has been increasingly red-coded.
âMAGA leaned into the American flag so hard,â Berman said. âEven the word patriot doesnât mean what it used to. If someone says theyâre a patriot, I know exactly who they voted for.â
Other trends have been more explicitly conservative. âTradwifeâ influencers adopt an idealised, highly stylised image of a 1950s-esque housewife, surrounded by children in a domestic setting. Some of the genreâs most popular creators, such as Nara Smith and Hannah Neelman of Ballerina Farm, donât engage with politics. Others, however, have been more explicit in espousing the benefits of being subservient to their husbands and prioritising domestic tasks such as cooking and cleaning. As a July headline from the feminist Ms. magazine read: âTradwives are doing conservativesâ work for them.â
Meanwhile, the âclean girlâ aesthetic is predominantly evangelised by white, often blonde influencers. The âUtah curlsâ â or long, flowing waves â seen on the Hulu series âThe Secret Lives of Mormon Wivesâ were omnipresent at this yearâs Republican National Convention.
The pervasiveness of these trends points to the fact that weâre living in a time where everyone is tapped into the look of the moment â and likely feels more pressure to conform to it. Itâs a contrast from the pre-TikTok age, when trends werenât named and spread like wildfire around the internet. Now, engaging with whatâs in fashion has become something of a must for younger consumers, encouraging a sense of sameness. Itâs all about âget the lookâ at any price, not âfind your personal style.â
Itâs an oversimplification that the widespread popularity of these trends speaks to acceptance of the ideals they can be associated with. People are finding ways to bring a personal touch even to the most omnipresent of trends, and an item of clothing can represent the left, right, centre, or nothing at all depending on who is wearing it. Beyoncé may have embraced Western wear, putting out a country album this year, but also campaigned for Harris. Some might be reclaiming their roots, rather than endorsing the values that sometimes come with them; others might simply like the look. When a trend crosses over into the mainstream, the meaning behind it may become diluted, if not changed entirely.
âIt doesnât mean the same thing to wear a big old belt buckle in New York City because youâre doing it ironically,â said Natalie Jolly, sociology professor at the University of Washington, Tacoma.